I deal with a lot of high-end timepieces, as I hinted in my last article about Rafael Nadal and his $525,000 wristwatch... And the more I deal in them- the more I see people, collectors (most just consumers who think they're collectors- but really just more-informed buyers with more time and money on their hands... um... I mean wrists...) and the question that always gets posed- "is it keeping Chronometer specs..."
That's when you know you're dealing with an amateur collector... And you know the expression of "a little bit of knowledge?" It's dangerous.
I have to laugh- that's like asking a driver if his Ferrari is keeping the 186 miles-per-hour, or the 0-60 in 4.3 seconds-flat, the performance benchmark promises- when really, generally, you don't want one that's gone that fast or that quickly as it means... well, other things.
But sure- you want a watch that costs thousands of dollars (notice how I left out the word "worth?" That's another conversation for another post...) to keep good time- that would make sense- but what are you timing it for?
Do you navigate ships without a GPS? Do you work for the Italian railroad? Are you afraid you'll overdo your eggs in the morning?
Maybe- yes- you want a watch to keep good time- after all, what are you wearing it for?
Your cellphone tells good time... It's more than likely tied to the satellite cell's time- which- probably mimics the official atomic clock, or NIST?
My very last business professor in grad school- a brilliant Chinese man once posed the question in an economic symposium in Switzerland "why make watches when everyone knows the cellphone tell better time...".
The Swiss didn't find him too amusing. And he always ended every sentence with a smile and a nod to go with his "pearls..." But he had a point.
Why do we wear watches when the accurate time is shockingly less and less important nor as detrimental to our lives as it once was- as in actuality- the right time is all around us- or just a click away?
Because many people have learned of the COSC- or in other, translated words Certified Official Superlative Chronometer specs.
The mass-premium watch companies like Rolex, Breitling, and Omega have sold us on this standard- like it really counts.
For most mechanical wristwatches- the standard deviation is plus-six-seconds/minus-four-seconds (+6/-4); the standards get tighter as the diameter of the watch movement gets larger; and loser for smaller mechanical movements.
Want to know the true sign of a watch manufacturer that makes "good" and "accurate" movements- look at their ladies-sized watches- see if they keep within chronometer specs!
But just because your $12,000 Rolex or your $120,000 Patek Philippe doesn't keep within chronometer specs doesn't mean there's something wrong with the watch.
It just means 1.) it's not running (duh!) 2.) it's not being worn or 3.) it could need a cleaning or an adjustment.
I know where there are some six-figure Pateks not keeping COSC specs because they've never been used, worn on a wrist, nor have they ever been run-in. And yes- they need a service too! (And that's $1500 on a Patek with nothing needing replacement!)
Watch movements are actually miniature engines. Engines that require servicing, lubrication and periodic adjustment- something a lot of people- even the wealthy and well-informed surprisingly don't understand.
Just imagine the servicing your car would need if it ran constantly, non-stop 24-hours a day... For five years.
But where am I going with all this?
If you want to sound like a real watch collector- and not just a consumer with a little bit of knowledge and a few extra bucks to spend because after all "we all know the cellphone tell better time..." don't ask if its keeping within COSC specs....
That's an adjustment. Or a service. Or a break-in. It means nothing.
The true watch collector rarely wears any of his most valuable, most prized watches- they sit in a safe or vault and get traded, bought and sold like any asset that fluctuates.
They're owned. And not because they keep good time. (Notice how I didn't say the words "great time?")
But you want to hear how ironic all this is- I maintain, own and use (wear) a small wristwatch collection. Few Rolex, a nice watch here and there- nothing too great as far as "good" watches go.
I oversee, have access to a slightly larger collection of privately owned watches- worth- ballpark estimates- maybe a million dollars on any given Sunday if you pool them all together? Truly some great watches- the very best money and praise can buy.
But the most accurate watch I have access to is a quartz freebie- given to me by Chrysler Five-Star, because I sold Chryslers in the fall of 2004...
It's a Tommy Hilfiger total-piece-of-shit, with a plastic Chinese quartz movement- about the size of my middle finger's nail... (Notice the use of the middle finger?)
I use the middle finger because it's so poetic, it's ironic- how after "investing" and collecting thousands of hard-earned dollars in timepieces- the most accurate watch I know- was free. And from a miserable, absolute low-point of my so-called "career."
It's rich- let me tell you.
Work hard. Buy expensive watches. And your shady, unlucky past laughs at you giving you the best watch of your so-called collection- as far as being a watch goes, anyway.
But this watch keep better time than cellphone.
In all honestly- click on www.time.gov if you want to know the right time to the second- or if you want to do like any watch "collector" with a little bit of knowledge does- hack your watch- and see how it goes... To the second.
Just don't lose any sleep over it. Unless you're running a railroad, navigating a merchant ship to the New World, or some crazy shit like that.
Everything else is just being anal, though they still say "timing is everything."
Your timing may not be impeccable; but this watch guy hopes it's at least "within specs..."
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