Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Mad About... The Wrong Watch


I'm a huge Mad Men fan- have been since the beginning... Multiple Emmy Award wins, countless raves- millions of fans around the world. It's a great show.

But what's unique about the show is its accurate depiction of life 45 years ago. Every week we're reminded of a historical event, a fad- a trend. The way life was.

The show is good, it's very good.

A few weeks back I commented on Don Draper's choice of watch- or rather, Jon Hamm's Rolex Explorer. Explorer I (One) for those who collect...
I've said it before, and I'll say it again- it's the wrong watch for the character- and specifically the time.

Here's why- like I've said in prior posts- no ad man in the 60's would have worn a steel-bracelet Rolex, let alone, an Explorer.

An Oyster Perpetual, an Air King or Datejust- maybe... But not the Explorer- what is actually a stripped-down, easy-to-read mountain climbers watch- a watch actually worn on Mount Everest and as described in the original Ian Flemming novels of 007 James Bond.

If Don Draper was a Vietnam War, and not a Korean War vet- maybe a Rolex GMT Master or Submariner would have been proper- after all, they were tools bought in the PX during the time- but what irks me the most about the whole Mad Men, Don Draper Explorer I thing is- it's the wrong watch- and specifically, the wrong reference.

In my prior post- after just the first episode of Season Four- I thought it a Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016- this would have been the correct version for 1965... And you would think the costume department was doing their homework... But seven episodes into the season- you're seeing this Rolex more and more. And more.

Pouring a drink, lighting a cigarette, picking up the phone, thumbing through a portfolio- even serving a can of Dinty Moore Stew- the watch is clearly a sapphire crystal, Ref. 114270 or similar- something out of the 1990's or later, made up until just last year.

The giveaway is the sapphire, flat crystal- something Rolex had not invented/brought-out until the late 1970's with their Beta Quartz and Presidential Day-Date models.

Eventually Submariners and all-gold GMT Masters got the scratch-resistant sapphire glass crystals in the early 80's- the pedestrian Oyster models didn't get them till around 1990.

The sapphire crystal is commonplace on most any modern watch- rumored to be scratch-proof, that's not entirely true- they scratch. They also chip and can shatter, which is something their acrylic predecessors wouldn't do- no matter what.

But the sapphire crystal was the answer to replacing your watch glass every year because of scratching- they run around $150 to replace and are not considered wear items anymore during a routine Rolex service- so, if you want another- you have to pay extra during a service.

Rolex has since started curving their sapphire glass crystals- giving them more depth, coating them with anti-reflection films- there's even a model that has a green-tinted sapphire crystal, the Milgauss.
What does this have to do with cars? Nothing- but the actor and Rolex "Don-ning" Jon Hamm was contracted by Mercedes-Benz to be the new voice of the brand.

Clearly the people at Mercedes-Benz were moved by this- from Season One.

"It's not called a car... It's called a Mercedes-Benz." That's coming next... watch.

But it's not a big deal, its still the best drama on television- but for all the Mad Mennies who have narrowed their lapels and ties, invested in pocket squares or have re-discovered and accepted Brylcreem- don't wear the modern-era, Rolex Explorer I with the light-refracting sapphire crystal- you would be making a mistake.

It's like driving a dark-blue '86 Cimarron- and thinking you're Don Draper in his powder blue metallic with the white-top '62 Coupe de Ville- it's just not the same. But they're both Cadillacs- if you could believe that...

But they did get the Cadillac showroom scene dead-on-correct- if you ask me... Back in Season Two.

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