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I deal with a lot of high-end timepieces, as I hinted in my last article about
Rafael Nadal and his $525,000 wristwatch... And the more I deal in them- the more I see people,
collectors (
most just consumers who think they're collectors- but really just more-informed buyers with more time and money on their hands... um... I mean wrists...) and the question that always gets posed-
"is it keeping Chronometer specs..."That's when you know you're dealing with an amateur collector... And you know the expression of "
a little bit of knowledge?" It's dangerous.
I have to laugh- that's like asking a driver if his Ferrari is keeping the 186 miles-per-hour, or the 0-60 in 4.3 seconds-flat, the performance benchmark promises- when really, generally, you don't want one that's gone that fast or that quickly as it means... well, other things.
But sure- you want a watch that costs thousands of dollars (
notice how I left out the word "worth?" That's another conversation for another post...) to keep good time- that would make sense- but what are you timing it for?
Do you navigate ships without a GPS? Do you work for the Italian railroad? Are you afraid you'll overdo your eggs in the morning?
Maybe- yes- you want a watch to keep good time- after all, what are you wearing it for?
Your cellphone tells good time... It's more than likely tied to the satellite cell's time- which- probably mimics the official
atomic clock, or
NIST?
My very last business professor in grad school- a brilliant Chinese man once posed the question in an economic symposium in Switzerland "
why make watches when everyone knows the cellphone tell better time...".
The Swiss didn't find him too amusing. And he always ended every sentence with a smile and a nod to go with his "pearls..." But he had a point.
Why do we wear watches when the accurate time is shockingly less and less important nor as detrimental to our lives as it once was- as in actuality- the right time is all around us- or just a click away?
Because many people have learned of the
COSC- or in other, translated words
Certified Official Superlative Chronometer specs.
The mass-premium watch companies like Rolex, Breitling, and Omega have sold us on this standard- like it really counts.
For most mechanical wristwatches- the standard deviation is plus-six-seconds/minus-four-seconds (+6/-4); the standards get tighter as the diameter of the watch movement gets larger; and loser for smaller mechanical movements.
Want to know the true sign of a watch manufacturer that makes "good" and "accurate" movements- look at their ladies-sized watches- see if they keep within chronometer specs!But just because your $12,000 Rolex or your $120,000 Patek Philippe doesn't keep within chronometer specs doesn't mean there's something wrong with the watch.
It just means 1.) it's not running (
duh!) 2.) it's not being worn or 3.) it could need a cleaning or an adjustment.
I know where there are some six-figure Pateks not keeping COSC specs because they've never been used, worn on a wrist, nor have they ever been run-in. And yes- they need a service too! (
And that's $1500 on a Patek with nothing needing replacement!)
Watch movements are actually miniature engines. Engines that require servicing, lubrication and periodic adjustment- something a lot of people- even the wealthy and well-informed surprisingly don't understand.
Just imagine the servicing your car would need if it ran constantly, non-stop 24-hours a day... For five years.
But where am I going with all this?
If you want to sound like a real watch collector- and not just a consumer with a little bit of knowledge and a few extra bucks to spend because after all "
we all know the cellphone tell better time..." don't ask if its keeping within COSC specs....
That's an adjustment. Or a service. Or a break-in. It means nothing.
The true watch collector rarely wears any of his most valuable, most prized watches- they sit in a safe or vault and get traded, bought and sold like any asset that fluctuates.
They're owned. And not because they keep good time.
(Notice how I didn't say the words "great time?")
But you want to hear how ironic all this is- I maintain, own and use (
wear) a small wristwatch collection. Few Rolex, a nice watch here and there- nothing
too great as far as "good" watches go.
I oversee, have access to a slightly larger collection of privately owned watches- worth- ballpark estimates- maybe a million dollars on any given Sunday if you pool them all together? Truly some
great watches- the very best money and praise can buy.
But the most accurate watch I have access to is a quartz freebie- given to me by Chrysler Five-Star, because I sold Chryslers in the fall of 2004...
It's a
Tommy Hilfiger total-piece-of-shit, with a plastic Chinese quartz movement- about the size of my middle finger's nail... (
Notice the use of the middle finger?)
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I use the middle finger because it's so poetic, it's ironic- how after "
investing" and collecting thousands of hard-earned dollars in timepieces- the most accurate watch I know- was free. And from a miserable, absolute low-point of my so-called
"career."It's rich- let me tell you.
Work hard. Buy expensive watches. And your shady, unlucky past laughs at you giving you the best watch of your so-called collection- as far as being a watch goes, anyway.
But this watch keep better time than cellphone.In all honestly- click on
www.time.gov if you want to know the right time to the second- or if you want to do like any watch "collector" with a little bit of knowledge does- hack your watch- and see how it goes... To the second.
Just don't lose any sleep over it. Unless you're running a railroad, navigating a merchant ship to the New World, or some crazy shit like that.
Everything else is just being anal, though they still say "
timing is everything."
Your timing may not be impeccable; but this watch guy hopes it's at least
"within specs..."